Delectable decay

Paris is beautiful. Not many people would argue with that. What I love about Paris is the way not everything is perfect and pristine, paint is peeling, doors are splitting, rust is forming. There is beauty in the decay. A block away from the recently restored historical monument, visited by millions, are examples of the inevitable wear and tear of day to day living in a city. Snippets of history and people's lives, layered upon each other. 

Drain pipes are a good place to see layers of paint, often accompanied by home made posters and fliers.

I love the way peeling paint gives clues as to what was there before.

I mean, how many layers of paint do you suppose went on before the final turquoise green?

This building on Rue Lepic always amazes me. Rue Lepic, the road where rents are prohibitively high. The people in this building presumably can't afford the (no doubt astronomical) charges that would be required to renovate this facade. I guess it's a matter of time before people buy the apartments who can afford it. But in the mean time I'm glad there are still 'normal' people living in the neighbourhood.

Shutters are always a good place to spot a bit of wear and tear.

As are the bottom of shop fronts.

Here is a close up of the door of the crumbling house round the corner from the Place de Tertre.

Here is a facade that has been cleaned, revealing an a metal 'R', 'U' and 'E' embedded in the stone.

I could go on....and on, but I'll finish up with this hinge and it's multitude of different colours and textures. What's not to like? Well, I suppose if it's your hinge and the door won't open, that would be a reason enough!

After Dark

It won't have escaped your notice that I love the neighbourhood where we live. Montmartre. Last night I went out for a stroll after dark. I walked up to the Place de Tertre in a round about way, up some quiet streets. I love this building. It is about 50 metres from the Place de Tertre, one of the most visited Squares in the world and this neglected building is quietly crumbling.

I enjoyed looking up at the open windows, glowing in the night.

The glowing street lamps.

The Sacré Cœur was looking beautiful as always.

It was such a mild balmy evening, the restaurant terraces were heaving.

The street light was mostly a warm orange. But not always.

Some of the lighting effects made me laugh out loud.

Cherubs, lampposts and golden horses vie for attention

The Pont Alexandre III bridge was built as part of the series of projects built for the Universal Exposition of 1900. Construction started in 1897 and was completed 3 years later. Components of the bridge were pre-fabricated in a factory and then brought to the site and assembled using a large crane. I have mentioned the amazingly over the top lampposts on Pont Alexandre III before. These ones. 

Viewed like this they look utterly extravagant. When you look more closely you realise the extravagance extends to the details.

I was rather taken with the lamppost's lion paw feet.

Not to mention this cherub surfing on a giant fish.

If you look closer still you see that somebody has attached one of the 'love locks' by the base of the fish.

People haven't been able to resist touching the cherub's toe.

At each end of the bridge are stone statues, often detailed with gold. 

The Eiffel Tower is vying for attention...."Coucou, don't forget me! I'm over here. Remember!"

And then of course there are the gold horses on top of the 17 metre high granite pillars. They have been gilded recently and shine beautifully as they catch the sun.

I can't help thinking this horse is also trying to get my attention..."Pick me, pick me!"

Chantilly

My parents were in town for a few days last week. As is often the case when they're here we embarked on a more ambitious outing than the usual trot to one of the local parks. We went to Chantilly, a small town about 40kms north of Paris, easily accessible from Paris by trains leaving from the Gard du Nord. Chantilly has several attractions, the Château de Chantilly, the Musée Vivant du Cheval (the Living Museum of the Horse) and the Chantilly racecourse. The Chateau was built in the mid 16C but later part of it was destroyed in the French revolution and rebuilt in 1870.

The Musée Vivant du Cheval is housed in enormous stables built in 1790. The 186 metre long building can accomodate up to 240 horses and 500 hounds! Legend says that the Prince of Condé, who inherited the Château in 1632 requested the building of the stables, as he believed he would be reincarnated as a horse.

To get to the Museum from Chantilly station involves walking through a bit of forest, not unlike the Bois de Boulogne but without the hum of Parisian traffic in the background.

You can then walk 'as the crow flies' along the horse track, a vivid green plush strip of grass. One of the healthiest expanses of grass I have ever seen in this country.

At the end of this long strip of grass is the Musée Vivant du Cheval, decorated with...of course...horses.

The stone is a lovely soft butter coloured limestone.

As luck (a miracle) would have it, we arrived just in time for a horse show. 14h30 incase you're interested. The show takes place inside.

The horses are beautiful.

And the riders, very skilful, manoeuvring round a tiny arena with a 13metre diameter.

This horse wasn't in the show, isn't he handsome?

And this one has a beautiful eye...

...and nose

More photos of Chantilly can be seen here (thumbnails) and here (slideshow)