Spring Snow

So, as you will have all noticed, the weather has been rather weird for this time of year. Snow in Paris in the middle of March? I don't think so! Well actually...yes.

Here is the Sacré Coeur yesterday afternoon in its' full snowy glory.

The Lapin Agile was looking very picturesque.

I went up to the Place de Tertre at midnight last night and had the place to myself. TO MYSELF!


Take at look at the reflections in the windows. Snow with added snow.


A touch of colour.


The manège at the bottom of the stairs infront of the Sacré Coeur was out of action.


Stairs in rue Cortot, by the Musée de Montmartre.


Rue de l'Abreuvoir.


An Angel!


Today we went to the Jardin des Tuileries. The snow had mostly melted. As we zig-zagged our way through the puddles this amazing woman caught my eye. 

Well caught!

Paris in snowy monochrome

It's snowing! Paris is white, beautiful and very very quiet.

I went on a long detour to get the croissants this morning. It is often said that Montmartre is like a village. Today it really felt one. People were walking in the middle of the streets as they were less treacherous than the pavements. Occasionally a car passed, but it was moving so slowly you could barely hear it. I mainly heard the crump crump of my boots in the snow.

Oddly, The park up on Avenue Junot was open (usually all public playgrounds are closed as soon as it snows). St Denis was looking even more forlorn than usual.

Here is the Place de Tertre. It was hard to take a photo that didn't have a gazillion people taking a photo in it.

The artists were not doing a lot of painting.


I've always loved this 'atelier' on rue Orchampt.


The flowers in the window boxes are valiantly struggling to survive against all odds.


Coming down these stairs was quite treacherous. Looking up them was quite magical.


The snow covered domes of the Sacré Coeur were camouflaged against the white sky.

Here is the Père Noël, this snowfall seems to be confusing him.

And here is a brave boatman rowing through the icy waters of Montmartre.

Place de Tertre in Blue

My camera finally wheezed its' last breath at my sons' 8th birthday party last week. I'd had it for nearly three years. I can't really begrudge the poor thing for dying on me, I overused it terribly. It had been playing up for a few months, and with its' gradual demise went my pleasure in taking photos. I was always waiting in tense anticipation for it to jam, and as a result often hesitated before taking it out at all.

Luckily for me my Other Half, and other close family members seem to have faith in my photography skills and think it's worth investing in a new camera for me. Let's just say that Christmas and birthday have come early for BB. For this I'm very grateful. Taking photos calms my soul, inspires me to look at my surroundings more carefully, to appreciate the small beautiful details that are around us all the time. 

Yesterday I went to pick up our daughter from a birthday party on the other side of the La Butte. Rather than walking around the back of the Sacré Coeur I decided to go over the hill, passing by the Place de Tertre, my new camera clutched to my breast. I think it would be fair to say this camera takes a good photo, and as ever this extraordinary city makes my job of capturing beauty rather easy. 

In December, at 19h30, the Place de Tertre more or less empty. The wet cobble stones reflected the light beautifully.

The dome of the Sacré Coeur peeked out at me through the lights...


...and called out 'Merry Christmas'!

The Place de Tertre on a dark wet December morning

Only five days until the shortest day of the year. This shortest day of the year is always a hurdle I'm glad to have crossed. Today is the last day of school and I decided to go up the hill to see how things looked by the Sacré Coeur and the Place de Tertre in the semi darkness. I certainly won't be doing it next week on the 21st December. I will be in bed, dieu merci!



Coming up Rue de l'Abreuvoir, the street lights were still on.




Glowing doors.


Car headlights.


The Place de Tertre is beautiful, no wonder it's one of the most visited squares in the world.


Cosily lit restaurants.


Lights reflected on the wet cobbles.




This shuttered made me smile, is it just me or does the above window look like it's being kept warm by a street level fire?

Obscure snippets up on La Butte

So la rentrée, the return to school, has come to pass. After nine, yes NINE weeks of school holidays the kids are safely back in the hands of l'Éducation Nationale. The first week back was pretty hectic but four days in I was able to go for a stroll up la Butte to admire the Sacré Coeur and the Place de Tertre in the early morning, pre-tourist, calm. I love doing this, especially after dropping the kids off at school. It makes me feel so lucky to live where I do.

After climbing the 118 stairs connecting Rue Lamarck and Rue Caulaincourt (I guess when I say 'stroll' that doesn't really include these stairs), I joined Avenue Junot.


I went to look at the wisteria on Avenue Junot, which is no longer in flower, but looks as sumptuous as ever (I took some photos of it when it was in flower...here). I would say it had a fairly good grip on it's surroundings.


Rue Norvins at the top of the hill, leading to the Place de Tertre was deserted. I did spot a few bin men, and a jogger, but that was all.


They were setting tables on the Place de Tertre. Under the awnings the light were on. Bleu, blanc, rouge.


I've written about delectable decay before, this building is on the Place de Tertre. A square visited by more than 8 million tourists a year.


I noticed a rose wedged into the 'fencing' surrounding the outdoor restaurant terraces. A souvenir from the night before.


Here is a rather attractively patinated pipe peeking through the render.


Roses in a side alley.




And, would you believe it, a cow. Cabaret de la Vache!


Other Place de Tertre posts:
An Early Morning Stroll (September 2010)

Place de Tertre, the Square on the Hillock (October 2010)

A Day after Christmas (December 2010)

Oh What a Beautiful Morning (February 2011)

Bleu Blanc Rouge...the chairs are back (March 2011)

After Dark

It won't have escaped your notice that I love the neighbourhood where we live. Montmartre. Last night I went out for a stroll after dark. I walked up to the Place de Tertre in a round about way, up some quiet streets. I love this building. It is about 50 metres from the Place de Tertre, one of the most visited Squares in the world and this neglected building is quietly crumbling.

I enjoyed looking up at the open windows, glowing in the night.

The glowing street lamps.

The Sacré Cœur was looking beautiful as always.

It was such a mild balmy evening, the restaurant terraces were heaving.

The street light was mostly a warm orange. But not always.

Some of the lighting effects made me laugh out loud.